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| Practice Rock |  |
| Dark Magic | ||
| Left Crack TR | ||
| Lieback T,TR | ||
| Regular Route T,TR | ||
| Thin Crack T,TR |
| Type: | TR, 1 pitch |
| Original: | YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,706 |
| Submitted By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 |
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| Comments on Left Crack | Add Comment |
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By Jeremy Monahan From: Fort Fun, CO May 18, 2002 |
This was my first trad climb. Pretty cool! There is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. Tried to yank it out, but it wouldn't budge. Oh well. |
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By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2004 rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof. |
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By Matt Chan From: Boulder Mar 29, 2005 rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor). |
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By Top Rope Hero From: Was Estes Park, now homeless Apr 1, 2010 rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
Though I don't believe in "+" ratings for 7s, Chan has it right; this route, really, is a breeze--especially for those with monkey arms (though my shorter partner crushed it anyway on lead). I call this down an "8," though, against the grain, I also upgraded the 10a on the right to 10b. |
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By Jim Fox From: Westminster, CO Oct 5, 2014 rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Fun climb. I thought the lower part was the hardest. Probably easier if you use the left bulge, but that is "off limits". The roof was pretty easy and the crack above easier than the start. Still felt like 5.9 to me or maybe 5.9+. Probably easier for climbers with longer arms. |
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By Vaughne Jun 8, 2016 |
Warning! The roof is made up of three or four detached blocks which look ready to let loose. Even avoiding them by pulling on the left side requires pulling on a large block which is resting on a sloping ledge. If these blocks came off, they could potentially reach the road. This route should probably be avoided. You can go right at the roof to climb "thin crack" instead although that requires some tricky gear to protect the crux. |
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