Dark Magic 

Dark Magic is located just right of the route labeled #1 in the picture. There is a rock on the ramp just at the base of the climb and 2 feet left of where you start. If you look closely, you will see a thin seam running straight up with a fixed #1 fixed copperhead.

This route is a beautiful line filled with almost everything a moderate aid climb can throw at you. It terms of purity, Dark Magic is almost a directissima and mandates a blend of different techniques to ascend it. Its shortness is the only disappointment.

Clip the copperhead and GENTLY test it (if at all). Once you're on the route is quite obvious. It is just a thin crack/seam running straight up into a small left-facing dihedral. Once at the dihedral, take caution, it sounds totally hollow when you touch it but this will be the best protection you will get on the entire route. You can sling a small horn at the top of this feature. Above the dihedral things get really interesting. Lots of placement hunting is in store. After one or two placements you have a choice whether to proceed left with an awkward reaching move or to topstep and go directly up. I went to the left. The last move I pulled was a totally bomber hook over a fake but you might get away with something else (I don't know what).

The problem with this route is that the bottom crack/seam and the top section is filled with ridiculous amounts of dirt and debris. Using the nut tool often to clean each placement helps a lot. The boulder at the climb's base and the gigantic boulder at the top make really good anchors, especially if you want to set up a top-rope. I would recommend anyone climbing it to set up a safety line from the top because until you get to the dihedral, a fall would cause you to zip every piece all the way to the ground.

Slings/cordalettes for TR and bottom anchor. BD stoppers: #2-#10, double on #2, triple on #4. Cams: 0.5,0.75 - 1 each, #3 Camalot. 1-2 short slings (as pro). Hooks: 1 BD cliffhanger. Helpful: 1-2 Pink tricams, duct tape.