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| Boulder Canyon |  |
Super Magic Bus
Re-Root #927
Rollins Pass (aka Corona Pass)
South Saint Vrain Figure 8
Blue Dot Trail (#606.1)
A Short Homestead Tour
| Photos: | Recent | Best | Popular |
| Location: | 40.0024, -105.4102 View Map Incorrect? |
| Page Views: | 1,133,330 |
| Administrators: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide) |
| Submitted By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 |
| Forecast: | 
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[17 people like this page.]
Photo of east Boulder Canyon from the air. | Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>> |
Fashionable Boulder Canyon climber pondering the a...
The kids playing in Boulder Creek.
Up Spire, Boulder Canyon.
Climbing was a little different in BC in the not s...
The Boulder Canyon gem, Castle Rock, photo: Bob Ho...
The Narrows of Boulder Canyon (starting with Cob R...
Copperhead in Boulder Creek.
Hike just past Boulder Falls for lots of climbing ...
Simply Skimpy (V8).
Making our way to the Black Widow Slab.
Sweeper (V5).
BETA PHOTO
Looking "up" the canyon from the sky.
Don't fall into this.
Boulder Canyon Bouldering, Top 5, Horan's Boulder,...
DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too ...
Boulder Canyon encounters.
Boulder painted in setting sunlight from the top o...
The Boulder Canyon streamside is virtually deserte...
Brent taking a post-climb-swim in Boulder Creek.
Or this poison ivy.
| Comments on Boulder Canyon | Add Comment |
| Show which comments —
Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2016 |
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By ac Feb 13, 2005 |
Does anyone know whats going on with raptor closures in Boulder Canyon this year? There are new yellow signs saying many crags like Blob, Happy Hour, Security etc are closed. Today there were lots of cars parked in normal parking, and a ranger truck. Just curious if anyone knows the details of the closures....... |
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 13, 2006 |
Avalon (cold this time of year), Animal World and Plotinus Wall (both warm this time of year). Solar Dome is also warm and worth a visit. |
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By Kyle P. From: Lander, WY Jan 3, 2008 |
 Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. Beautiful. Can anyone indentify this crag? CO119 from Nederland. A road winds around it with two small bridges to cross. The crack system on the right begins with a two bolt steep face. |
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By crankenstein Jan 3, 2008 |
That is Castle Rock and the route is Country Club Crack. |
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By Kyle P. From: Lander, WY Jan 4, 2008 |
Thanks crank. You're the man. |
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By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Feb 5, 2008 |
Have the Boulder Canyon closures for 2008 been announced, yet? I have done some online searches, but I have not found any information. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 5, 2008 |
From a user feedback mpecotte@fs.fed.us: "I wanted to share a press release from the Boulder Ranger District regarding implementing of seasonal raptor closures in Boulder Canyon, Boulder Colorado. Please read on, and pass the information on to your members and visitors. We hope you can help spread the word to protect golden eagle habitat during courtship, mating and fledging of young. Forest Service Closes Areas in Boulder Canyon to Protect Wildlife Boulder, February 1, 2008 To protect nesting birds of prey, certain climbing areas on National Forest System lands in Boulder Canyon will be closed to all users beginning today, February 1. These closures protect a long-established golden eagle territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to alternate nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. The areas commonly known as Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will be closed to climbing and other access. The Security Risk Area closure for 2008 includes Upper and Lower Security Risk. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera remain open. These areas are located along State Highway 119 and approximately one and one-half miles east of Boulder Falls. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. For the most current closure information, check signs in the vicinity, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/r.... Colorado Division of Wildlife (CDOW) biologists recommend protection of a quarter mile buffer zone around active and alternate nest sites for birds of prey. The Boulder Ranger Districts closures actually cover smaller areas around some nest sites, due to the topography and fragmented land ownership in the area. We begin the Boulder Canyon closures on February 1 to protect these golden eagles during the important early nesting season and to be consistent with other local climbing area closures, said Boulder District Ranger Christine Walsh. Ranger Walsh continues, For three consecutive years, we have left Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera open to allow access for winter and spring climbing. As long as compliance with the closed areas is not compromised, we anticipate continuing this in future seasons. The Forest Service continues to cooperate with the CDOW and Boulder County Nature Association (BCNA) to protect important nesting areas for birds of prey. CDOW and BCNA volunteers have monitored nesting birds of prey on National Forest lands in Boulder Canyon for many years, providing valuable data about nesting activity. It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Please help protect wildlife by respecting all closures, immediately leaving if you should accidentally enter one, and urging other visitors to do the same. Please also be aware that the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (303-441-3440) and Boulder County Parks and Open Space (303- 678-6200) also enforce closures to protect nesting birds of prey." |
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By James Beissel From: Boulder, CO Apr 17, 2008 |
A chonological list of guidebooks covering Boulder Canyon: 1961 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (1st ed?) 1964 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (2nd ed?) 1967 - High over Boulder: A Climber's and Hiker's Guide to Boulder, Colorado by Pat Ament 1970 - High over Boulder (2nd Ed) by Pat Ament 1972 - 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1976 - High over Boulder (3rd Ed) by Pat Ament 1980 - Rocky Heights: A Guide to Boulder Free Climbs by Jim Erickson 1981 - Boulder Topographics - A Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs by Richard Rossiter 1983 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter 1984 - High over Boulder (4th Ed) by Pat Ament 1985 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter 1986 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter 1988 - Boulder Climbs North by Richard Rossiter 1992 - Best of Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter 1993 - Boulder Sport Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson 1995 - High over Boulder (5th Ed) by Pat Ament and Cleve McCarty 1995 - Rock Climbing Colorado by Stewart Green 1996 - Boulder Sport Climber's Supplement Guide by Mark Rolofson 1996 - Best of Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter 1997 - Classic Climbs 02: Upper Dream Canyon by Richard Rossiter 1998 - Classic Boulder Climbs by Fred Knapp and Mike Stevens 1998 - Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon by Richard Rossiter 2000 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson 2000 - Best of Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter 2002 - Serious Play: A Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics 5.2-5.9 by Steve Dieckhoff 2005 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 2: The Upper Canyon by Mark Rolofson 2006 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 1: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon by Mark Rolofson 2009 - Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Bob D'Antonio |
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By Dave J Apr 17, 2008 |
Hey Bob D', when can we add your upcoming book to this list? I heard rumors that it was suppose to be out around this time, is that true? |
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By Mike Dallin Apr 18, 2008 |
A few other guidebooks: Mark Rolofson's 1993 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide includes, among many others, a section on Boulder Canyon: "Featuring a new selection of sport climbs from 5.11 to 5.13, not previously documented". Cover is a b&w; picture of Mark climbing on the Fang in SSV. Mark Rologson's 1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide is an update that greatly expands the Boulder Canyon section: "Introducing a new and growing selection of sport climbs from 5.9 to 5.13c on featured granite." Cover is a color picture of Dianne Barrow climbing at Security Risk. Fred Knapp's Front Range Topropes also includes Boulder Canyon. I have his first ed, but he doesn't list a year on the copyright page. |
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By Chris Archer Apr 18, 2008 |
Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?. |
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By Matt McKibben From: Durango, Co Jul 24, 2008 |
Anyone know of any good shady afternoon crags in Boulder Canyon? |
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By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Jul 24, 2008 |
Tonnere Tower is a good summer crag. Sport Land, on the east face, is in full shade after 2pm this time of year. Treasure Wall, The Garden, and Creekside, on the north face, are in shade for much of the day. The routes at Creekside are right next to Boulder Creek, and get cool breezes off the creek as well. |
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By Jacob Richey Nov 14, 2008 |
What's the steepest sector in Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun? I'm taking a lot of falls for a science project and don't want to get scraped up. |
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By Dan Levison From: Boulder, CO Nov 14, 2008 |
Hey Matt: The steepest section of Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun is Bitty Buttress (The Lorax). Your best bet is to go up to the final crux on the Lorax and jump off -- massive air...probably the steepest route in Bo-Can. DL |
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By jasonhudson Jul 1, 2009 |
I am visiting the area. This is my first year lead climbing so I am looking for single pitch sport routes around 5.8. So far my limit is 5.9. Thanks. |
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By Nick Fury From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 14, 2009 |
Bob D'Antonio your guidebook is priceless. I love how you incorporated the history of Boulder Canyon, as well as color coding trad and sport routes among other things. Thanks for the effort. |
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By Greg Howland Aug 15, 2009 |
I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer. |
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By Cale Farnham Aug 20, 2009 |
Greg, I didn't see it around and know how that feels, brother! I'm out of Loveland and have an extra BD Guide I'm not using if you'd like to have it? Let's get out on a climb soon and I'll hook it up for you, man! Cale 9703910066 |
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By The Good Life Denver Nov 11, 2009 |
We too want to congratulate Bob D'Antonio and Wolverine Press on their fantastic full-color photo guidebook, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs (released just this summer). We found it to be one of the two best climbing guidebooks in the region--and the best if you are a sport climber only. If you are looking to climb Boulder Canyon, we highly recommend getting that book! Our review of it can be found here: thegoodlifedenver.com/2009/11/... |
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By nadeleets Apr 16, 2010 |
I found an old crash pad by Castle Rock. I climbed until sunset, and no one claimed it. If this is your long lost crash pad and are able to describe it, I'll gladly return it to you. |
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By misha zavalov From: Boulder, Co. May 21, 2010 |
Stashing a pad out here sounds ABSOLUTELY retarded to me.... Good God, people, sack up... and carry your pads wherever you go. |
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By Kelly Hughes Jul 27, 2010 |
Gear found at the base of Luminosity today around 4pm [7/27/10]. If it's yours, please email Kelly at kel.and.har@gmail.com and describe the items. |
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By nick martino Sep 15, 2010 |
Found a fairly new Bo Can Guide Book at the base of a crag on 9-14-10. Let me know what crag if it is yours. Nick Martino |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 29, 2011 |
From Bev Baker, NF wildlife biologist: No nesting for the Boulder Canyon eagles this year, that we've been able to find. They have been seen in the territory and added green branches to one nest in March, but didn't settle anywhere as far as we know. All of the National Forest seasonal Boulder Canyon closures are being reopened, and signs will be removed today. From John Bustos, Public Affairs Officer, Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grassland: Boulder, Colo. (April 29) On April 29, the Forest Service will reopen Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. These areas have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. The areas, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls, are located along State Highway 119. The Forest Service anticipates reinstating closures in Boulder Canyon next Feb. 1 to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed. It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one. For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas or call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jan 26, 2012 |
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District: Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1. These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas. The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. |
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By George Bracksieck Mar 4, 2012 |
This post is in regard to a rock named "Valor" on page 129 of D'Antonio's "Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs." Today we climbed two routes that are incorrectly drawn on the photo at the bottom of the page. We did one route (4 bolts to bolted anchors) on the pictured rock. We did another route (2 bolts plus gear) on a small wall a short distance up and left from the pictured rock. The namesake route, "Valor," doesn't seem to exist, or it may just be a loose pile. |
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By George Bracksieck Mar 5, 2012 |
From an editor interested in accuracy, here are few more thoughts about Valor: The photo on p. 129 is of a rock that resembles a pinnacle, which does happen to be just off of the approach "trail" (the location described for route #5), on the way up and left to a short wall that is not pictured in the book. Both rocks lie above and behind the top of Mind Shift Cliff. On the "pinnacle," we did a 45-foot route that underclings a short, diagonal roof on the right side of the rock to gain an arete, has four bolts, and could be 11c/d. The author called the 11c/d "Schizophrenia," but he called the route on the pInnacle "The Pinnacle of Success." On the small wall, we did a 80-foot route that climbs a short face to gain a finger crack and other intermittent cracks, has two bolts, takes gear up to 1.5 inches, could be 11b/c, and has NO bolted anchor. The author called the 11b/c "The Pinnacle of Success," but he called the route on the short wall "Schizophrenia." Confused? I think the author is. Both routes are NOT on the same rock, as indicated in the photo on p. 129. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 15, 2012 |
From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist: U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon www.fs.usda.gov/arp Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services, (303) 541-2500 Boulder, Colo. March 15 This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012. |
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By suckMYbistrong Jun 1, 2012 |
Hi! I am new to Boulder, I have a question about top roping in the area. I am a new climber, and I don't know how to set up anchors using trees, or rocks, I only know how to set up TR anchors using bolts. Are there any routes between 5.7 and 5.10 where I can hike up to the bolts to set up TR anchors? |
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By Parker Pflaum From: Boulder, CO Apr 8, 2013 |
I left a watch at The Riviera area (in the Bihedral) of Boulder Canyon on Friday, April 5th. If found, please respond to this post. The watch is a cheap, Target, Casio, Quartz, black watch with an analog, white face. |
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By Joe Sambataro From: Seattle, WA Oct 28, 2013 |
New Study Shows Climbers are Main Recreational Users of Boulder Canyon Follow the link for more information. Thanks to all the volunteers who completed the surveys. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 3, 2014 |
From Bev Baker: Date: Feb. 3, 2014 BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young, said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information. |
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By Nick Hamel Apr 21, 2014 |
I'm headed to Boulder Canyon in a few weeks and was wondering where the best place to camp is. I don't need anything fancy, just a place fairly close to the climbing. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 22, 2014 |
From the news: they are going to dredge Boulder Creek from Boulder Falls all the way downstream. It will close the creek to playing/being in the water with a reported $1000 fine for violators. |
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By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jul 29, 2014 |
From Bev Baker, USFS Wildlife Biologist: BOULDER, Colo. The Boulder Ranger District of the Roosevelt National Forest will lift the golden eagle climbing closure for the Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress climbing areas in Boulder Canyon on July 31. For the most current closure information, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit the website at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recrea.... |
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By Josh Warfield Jun 30, 2015 |
Watch your valuables, people. I left my car locked but with the windows cracked at the parking for Sherwood Forest. I came back and someone had taken all the cash from my wallet. Luckily they didn't take any climbing gear or any credit cards or anything, but I'm probably not gonna leave the windows cracked again.... |
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By Josiah Cooper Aug 3, 2015 |
This area has seen a ton of development in recent history as I understand. Are there any up-to-date guides to the area available? On the other hand, does anyone with good beta on the place want to meet up here later this month and do some wall crawling? |
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By rick s Apr 22, 2016 |
Forgot belay specs at Animal World Thursday, April 21. Wondering if anyone picked them up. Please message me, and I can come meet you. Thanks! |
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By Chris Archer Aug 16, 2016 |
Found book, "Daring to Trust" by David Richo and journal, at Animal World parking lot in Boulder Canyon, August 14, 2016. Contact me at: sarahaspaulding@gmail.com |
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By Kenny Danngg Sep 14, 2016 |
Found a belay device at Oceanic Wall in Lower Dream Canyon. Name the device and color, and I'll give it back to you. 714- three Six Nine - 5662 Kenny |
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By Joshua Lambert 5 days ago |
Boulder County Transportation, in partnership with the City of Boulder and Colorado Department of Transportation, is evaluating plans to extend the Boulder Canyon Trail further west along SH 119/Boulder Canyon Drive. The planned extension will result in a 10-foot wide trail from the current terminus near Fourmile Canyon Drive west to Chapman Drive, including a potential grade-separated connection to Fourmile Canyon Drive and the Betasso Preserve Open Space. The trail extension will improve safety for cyclists, pedestrians, and motor vehicles traveling in Boulder Canyon. |
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